There are several versions = different makings of Goodyear Welted.
The main point are the insoles - the photo below shows two old original insoles,
which are twice as thick as those from GYW with Gemband.
3 original Goodyear insoles:
- Above, the current frequently used one with a tear along the edge:The shoemaker places the frame seam in this crack
- The middle insole shows a double lip:
- The brand sole is cut horizontally along its edge and folded up - at the same time it is cut diagonally from the inside, similar to the upper but
at a much flatter angle - thus creating the second lip.
Both lips are folded up and placed against each other.
The leather strap is then sewn onto this bar and becomes the shoe frame.
- The lower sole is the simplified version of this and is reinforced with gusseted canvas
The mostly used insole in Italy with tear lip.
VIBERG SHOES in CANADA
VIBERG shoes, Canada, has bought old machines and revived the original design of the GYW-insole
to offer its customers high quality GYW-shoes instead of jelly-stitched ones.
Insole with Gemband, the gemmed rip
origine of the photo:
Solettificio Monica, Porto Sant'Elpidio, FM, Marche, Italy