Goodyear Welted SHOES: From Goodyear fatto a mano made by shoemakers till primed-stitched in the factory

  • There are a lot of shoes that are offered under the name Goodyear Welted.

    These range from hand-stitched and doubled shoes from the shoemaker to shoes sewn all the way around with a leather strap, called welt.

    The following articles will take a closer look at this and present the best-known manufacturers of Goodyear Welted shoes.

  • There are several versions = different makings of Goodyear Welted.

    The main point are the insoles - the photo below shows two old original insoles,
    which are twice as thick as those from GYW with Gemband.

    3 original Goodyear insoles:

    • Above, the current frequently used one with a tear along the edge:The shoemaker places the frame seam in this crack
    • The middle insole shows a double lip:
    • The brand sole is cut horizontally along its edge and folded up - at the same time it is cut diagonally from the inside, similar to the upper but
      at a much flatter angle - thus creating the second lip.
      Both lips are folded up and placed against each other.
      The leather strap is then sewn onto this bar and becomes the shoe frame.
    • The lower sole is the simplified version of this and is reinforced with gusseted canvas

    The mostly used insole in Italy with tear lip.


    VIBERG SHOES in CANADA

    Channelled-Insole--15.jpg

    VIBERG shoes, Canada, has bought old machines and revived the original design of the GYW-insole
    to offer its customers high quality GYW-shoes 
    instead of jelly-stitched ones.

    Insole with Gemband, the gemmed rip

    origine of the photo:
    Solettificio Monica, Porto Sant'Elpidio, FM, Marche, Italy
    http://www.solettificiomonica.it/

    Einmal editiert, zuletzt von urban (10. August 2022 um 18:29)

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