Classics or current models from the latest collection? Which do you prefer?

  • A very special topic is the question of what the ladies and gentlemen prefer in their clothing, fashionable pieces from the current collection

    or classics of the respective garment - that sounds a bit wooden now, but maybe I'll come up with a better formulation later.


    Classics that everyone knows are, in the case of mackintoshes, the various trench coats by:


    Burberry

    MACKINTOSH, formerly UK, now Japan

    Greenfell, UK,

    Sanyo, Japan, The SANYO 100 years Coat - a trench coat for the next 100 years



    Or in the case of leather jackets, the A1, A2, G1, B1 etc. models, which are very close to the original in terms of material, workmanship and design, for example, are available from:

    Lost Worlds, New York

    Buzz Rickson's, Japan

    THE REAL McCOY'S

    Bill Kelso, UK

    Or the BUCO models from Langlitz Leathers, USA, or LOST WORLDS, NY.


    Chinos and parkas and other classic pieces are also available from Buzz Rickson's and THE REAL McCOY'S.


    Many fashionable leather jackets are based on the A1ff flight jackets, like the models from BARACUTTA or those from CHAPAL from France.


    With DENIM, the closer to the original weaves and dyes, the trousers are most easily found in Japan....


    Down jackets by CANADA GOOSE like the SNOW MANTRA or the Chilliwack, of which I have by chance a special model in leather, already old but still looking very good.

    Classics by Massimo Osti or NEMEN & Co.

    All the manufacturers mentioned are easy to buy, perhaps Stuart Clurman from LOST WORLDS is a bit difficult to deal with, I get on well with him, you just can't negotiate the price with him...

    The question is what someone prefers: something new from every collection all the time or a classic model even at the risk of being held up by a woman, which is what happens to me,

    wearing old clothes.


    Of course, the "Sylt people" appreciate Moncler, for example, more than more discreet models, although my CG jackets are easy to identify except for the black Chilliwack.

    My CG phase has been over for more than 10 years, but every year I eagerly await the chance to wear the Chilliwack again... It's just incredibly comfortable to wear!

    The parts last forever. Two of my Buco derivatives, I had the original design modified by Stuart, which I would never do again(!),

    are made of 2 mm thick bison leather, and getting them in the US was a big adventure!

    How anyone would want to break them is a mystery to me - they also weigh (each) over 3.50 kg: leather protector.


    And therein lies the biggest disadvantage, because you can't, you don't have to go with the fashion!


    Translated with DeepL

  • In the sense I meant, the Fred Perry polo shirts are not actually classics but products of a fashion label.


    An example of what is commonly understood as a classic is the PEACOAT, also called a dandy or caban or short coat.


    :read: The History of the Peacoat – From Navy to Normalcy


    I was able to buy a peacoat from SEALUP from an Italian dealer at a very reasonable price:


    363059001.jpg


    PEACOAT GENOVA in Dark Navy



    lenght: 90 cm.


    This is based on 50 (IT).Model’s


    height: 188cm/6'22".


    Model wears size 50(IT).


    Outer: 100% wool.


    In: Thermore.Lining: 100% viscose.


    Treatment: water repellent.


    Buffalo horn buttons with logo.


    Double-breasted closure.


    Welt pockets with cotton fleece lining, inside pocket with zip.


    Signature details: gold color contrast piping.


    Specialist dry clean.


    Made in Italy



    Buzz Rickson's

    br14146-5_1080x.jpg

    PEA COAT LONG MODEL



    WOOL LINING


    BR14146

    • The pea coats adopted in the 1910s were comprised of a waist-length type and a knee-length type. Both types use high-density thick melton wool and have anchor buttons engraved with 13 stars representing the seal of the United States. However, there are differences in their details. The waist-length type has hand warmer pockets on both sides, and the lining is made of rayon cotton. The knee-length type has hand warmer pockets and flap pockets underneath, and the lining was wool. While both were adopted in the 1910s and the exact year of their adoption is not clear, the knee-length type undoubtedly provides greater protection from the cold.
    • Made in Japan
    • Model Wearing Size: 40 (Height 180cm / Weight 72kg)

    【Parts】

    • Material: 36oz Melton Wool
    • Lining: Wool Flannel
    • Pocket: Cotton Corduroy
    • Button: MIL Specs Urea (13 Stars and Anchor Motif Early Type)
    • Label: Naval Clothing Factory


    product_MJ18131_140-NVY_202201301643529219448.jpg


    The military first adopted the pea coat prior to WWI in 1913. The details of this WWII model have been updated since its first inception back in 1913, removing the additional lower pockets and keeping just the two hand warmer slash pockets for a cleaner silhouette. Since then, the pea coat style has gone pretty much unchanged and what was once a piece of U.S Naval uniform has now become an essential winter staple for many.


    Double Melton Wool  Cotton 

    Twill Interlining  

    Custom Produced 13 Star Ebonite Buttons  

    Made in Japan



    The exciting part at the end:

    Der Peacoat of Buzz Ricksons costs FOB JAPAN + p&p + 19 % import ales sax (VAT) only around 600.- € till 650.- € at the reason of the Yen exchange

    the one of THE REAL MCCOY's about 800.- €,

    while the Peacoat from SEALUP has a RRP of 1,070.- €.


    At Burg + Schild the Peacoat from Buzz Ricksons costs actually 699.- €

    https://www.burgundschild.com/…554-us-navy-pea-coat-navy

  • If you compare the designs (cuts) including the details such as buttons, lining, lapels etc., the models made very close to the original are easy to distinguish from fashionable peacoats.

    The Real McCOY'S are easily distinguishable from fashionable peacoats.

    I can't say anything about the quality of the workmanship, as I only own one jacket.

    But it is a fact that the fabrics of the Japanese models are much heavier than the one of my model and

    they are far less expensive and therefore actually much cheaper.


    This circumstance was the trigger for my initial question.

    Would anyone like a model that is more or less trimmed to the current design trends, in this case: sporty elegant,

    or

    a replica true to the original with a corresponding cut and in heavy quality.

    This depends specifically on the rest of his wardrobe - but I'm really not sure if many gentlemen are aware of it,

    that you can't compare Italian cuts and finishes, let alone French ones, because they're more elegant and finely chiselled,

    should not be combined with clothes from the United Kingdom & Ireland - it's a clash!

    Translated with DeepL

  • Other classics like overcoats & co can be found here - after all, someone might feel inspired....


    The English Gentlemen


    And here are the classics in overcoats from Crombie, UK:

    CROMBIE since 1805 - Luxurious Coats & suits for LADIES & GENTS.


    Crombie 1805 will come come very soon

    Crombie 1805 Limited


    In the past, some companies like Paul & Shark, Italy, also had permanent collections with special pieces like the waterproof jumper,

    whose name escapes me at the moment - summa summarum the icons of the previous collections.

    Translated with DeepL

  • Eigentlich äußere ich (genrell) nichts mehr in Foren, das Meiste wird eh nur herangezogen um einen vorzuführen oder anderes. Mit Kritik habe ich keine Probleme, nur meist dient es anderen Zwecken als der reinen Sachlichkeit.


    Was Fred Perry betrifft, ist es etwas zu pauschal. Generell hat die Qualität abgenommen und sie sind wie Hackett zu einem Fashionanbieter mutiert aber es gibt eine Linie (hochpreisiger) die in England nach alten Schnittmustern hergestellt wird und auch in der alten Qualität. Ich habe eine Harrington Jacke und einen Cardigan aus dieser und die Qualität kann sich Problemlos mit einer Baracuta G9 vergleichen.

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